Kashmir in December 2026: Weather, Snow, Christmas Crowds and What to Pack

Kashmir weather in December

December is when winter properly arrives. Srinagar averages about 10°C by day and -2°C at night, Pahalgam about 8°C and -4°C, and Gulmarg about 5°C and -5°C. It is one of the driest months, with only about three rainy days in Srinagar, so days are often clear, bright and cold, and nights drop well below freezing.

Srinagar weather in December

Srinagar's December days are often clear and around 8 to 10°C, and the mornings are frosty. Cold spells can go much lower: on 21 December 2024 the city fell to -8.5°C, its coldest night since 1974, and parts of Dal Lake froze. Srinagar's all-time record low, -12.8°C, was also a December night, on 13 December 1934. Pack for nights far colder than the averages suggest.

Gulmarg weather in December

Gulmarg is the coldest of the main places and the one most likely to be under snow. Days hover just above freezing and nights sit around -5°C, colder after fresh snow. Precipitation rises from about 57 mm in November to 74 mm in December, almost all of it as snow, which is why the ski season usually begins in December.

Will there be snow in Kashmir in December?

In the mountains, usually yes; in Srinagar, only in some years. Gulmarg, Sonamarg and Pahalgam normally turn white during December, and Apharwat, at the top of the Gulmarg Gondola, often has snow from October. In the city it varies a lot: in the 2024-25 winter Srinagar's first snow came on 27 December, while in 2025-26 it did not arrive until 23 January. The 2025-26 season did bring heavy snow to the hills on 21 December, the first day of Chillai Kalan.

If snow is the main reason for your trip, December is a good bet in Gulmarg but not a guarantee in Srinagar. January and February give the best odds everywhere.

For where and when snow falls across the valley, see our full guide to snowfall in Kashmir.

Coming a little earlier? Kashmir in November is chinar and saffron season, with clear skies and fewer crowds.

Chillai Kalan begins on 21 December

On 21 December, Kashmir enters Chillai Kalan, the 40 coldest days of the year, which run to around the end of January. The same day is now celebrated as Pheran Day, for the long woollen cloak Kashmiris wear all winter, often with a kangri, a small earthen pot of embers, tucked underneath. It is the season of harissa, slow-cooked mutton and rice served for breakfast in the Old City from mid-October.

For our family, winter means harissa: we used to ride to a small local shop in Rajouri Kadal, downtown Srinagar, at 4 in the morning in freezing cold, and it was worth it every time. If you are in Srinagar in December, go early one morning; it is the most Kashmiri breakfast you can have.

Where to go in Kashmir in December

Srinagar

Srinagar in December is quiet, cold and beautiful. The lake is still, the chinars are bare, the Old City is full of harissa shops, and the gardens are bare and empty. Take a shikara in the midday sun, spend a morning downtown, and ask your houseboat or hotel exactly how the rooms are heated. Our Srinagar guide has the full list of places and prices.

Gulmarg

Gulmarg is the heart of a December trip. The snow is usually down, the ski season is starting, and the meadow is a playground for snowball fights, snow angels and sledges. In winter it is worth staying at least one night instead of a rushed day trip, and trying skiing, even for a morning. The drive up from Tangmarg, with chains on the tyres and the views opening up at every bend, is part of the fun.

Where to stay, skiing costs and the chains rule are in our Gulmarg guide.

Pahalgam

Pahalgam, about 95 km from Srinagar airport, is snowy and very quiet in December. Betaab Valley can be visited through the winter, while Aru is usually cut off by snow from January to early March. Nights here drop to about -4°C.

Sonamarg

Sonamarg is newly open for winter trips. Since the Z-Morh tunnel opened on 13 January 2025, the road from Srinagar stays open through the snow season, so Sonamarg makes an easy December day trip. Zoji La, the pass beyond it towards Ladakh, has usually closed for winter, though in 2025-26 the Border Roads Organisation kept it open with only short closures after heavy snow.

Frozen Drung and the offbeat meadows

Near Tangmarg, Drung Waterfall freezes into a wall of ice as winter deepens. Doodhpathri and Yusmarg are lovely under early snow, but their roads can close after heavy snowfall, so check the morning you go.

Christmas and New Year in Kashmir

The last week of December is the busiest week of the Kashmir winter. In 2025, hotels in Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam were almost completely full from 25 December into the new year, and Gulmarg, with about 2,300 beds in its hotels and huts, was 100% sold out on 31 December. Rooms, flights and Gondola slots for that week sell out early and cost the most.

• Book by October: if you want Gulmarg for Christmas or New Year, book rooms, flights and Gondola tickets as early as you can.
• Or come earlier: the first three weeks of December are much quieter, with the same cold and often the first snow.
• Expect crowds: at the Gondola, on the Gulmarg meadow and on the road up from Tangmarg, especially on 31 December and 1 January.

Getting around Kashmir in December

• To Gulmarg: in snow, only 4x4s and cars fitted with anti-skid chains may drive from Tangmarg to Gulmarg. Registered vendors fit chains at Tangmarg.

• Closing roads: the Mughal Road closes for winter in late December (on 29 December in 2024), and Gurez is usually cut off by snow on the Razdan Pass.
• Flights and the highway: heavy snow can cancel flights at Srinagar and close the Jammu to Srinagar highway. Keep a spare day before your flight home.
• Travel in daylight: December days are the shortest of the year and roads ice over after dark, so plan to reach your hotel before sunset.

For the full planning checklist (bookings, SIM, money and safety), see our Kashmir travel guide.

Things to do in Kashmir in December

• Start skiing: the Gulmarg ski season usually begins in December; beginners can learn on gentle slopes near the base with an instructor.

Slopes, lessons and courses: see our Gulmarg skiing guide.

• Ride the Gondola: Phase 1 to Kongdoori for snow play, Phase 2 to Apharwat for deep snow when the wind allows.

Book only on the official portal; see our Gulmarg Gondola guide for slots and refund rules.

• A winter shikara: the lake is at its stillest in December; go around midday when the sun is warm.

• Harissa at dawn: the Old City shops in Aali Kadal, Fateh Kadal and Rajouri Kadal serve it early.
• The igloo café: in recent winters a hotel in Gulmarg has built a café out of snow, from about early December.

What to wear in Kashmir in December

Dress for below-freezing nights and snow. Thermal layers, a warm fleece, a heavy waterproof jacket, gloves, a warm cap and waterproof shoes are the minimum. Our one rule for snow days: bring an extra pair of clothes and shoes that can handle snow, because you will get wet. Snow boots and jackets can be rented at Tangmarg, and a pheran bought in Srinagar is the warmest souvenir you can take home.

Is December a good time to visit Kashmir?

Yes, if you want cold, quiet and the start of the snow. It is a poor choice if you dislike cold or want green meadows.

Comparing months? Our Kashmir month-by-month guide puts every month side by side.